DISHES TO VINYL / PUNTARELLE ON ALIAS / POSTER
You and I, you eat my anchovies
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| on Alias, December 4, 2010 |
Second episode of "Vinyl dishes" weekly column in the weekly supplement of the Red chicory manifest Alias \u200b\u200b in Ultrasound section. Two restaurants and a Roman in Milan: Whittaker, Working Week and Kenny Rogers.
ROME
Osteria Arch
Via Pagliari 11, Rome. www.osteriadellarco.com . Tel 06-8548438. Closed Sunday
In principle, in '70 and '80, were the profiteroles. Virtually the Beatles. Then here is blacks and white truffles and tiramisu: Duran Duran and Spandau. In the mid 80's comes the cool jazz of the pears and chocolate cake, the more durable the Working Week. Now the pie goes crazy with the hot chocolate heart, more soft Tiziano Ferro. There is no tavern or restaurant do not you propina. Always the same, with the taste a bit 'industrial. Arch tavern, and there it is. Then you eat it and understand, this is a moelleux, 85% chocolate, bitter orange marmalade and star anise salt flakes. Preceded by an excellent sheep's ricotta with sabina scapece zucchini from perciatelli Cori with bacon and pecorino cheese, and a cheek of beef with Cesanese.
Bonus prices moderate. The female staff: the chef Cristina Iemmi, the sommelier Nicole Baiani.
Malus the chocolate cake: very good, but it can not be more
Votes
Cuisine:
7.5 Service: 7.5
Environment: 6.5
MILAN
Ratan
Via de Castillia 28, Milano. www.ratana.it . Tel. 02-87128855
Quando la sera milanese diventa una bruma impastata di smog e i grattacieli rischiano di indurirti il cuore, pensi che hai voglia di commuoverti. E allora ascolti una vecchia canzone dell’Enzino Jannacci, chiedendoti perché non sia ancora considerato da tutti quel genio che è: “Io/io e te/ che guardi le mie rughe/ io/io e te/ che mangi le mie acciughe”. E poi entri in questo villino dell'Isola, ti siedi di fronte al gigante gentile Danilo e osservi in silenzio l'antica bellezza di un risotto alla Milan. The chef, Cesare Battisti, prepares with Carnaroli Superfino Reserve St. Maximus, English saffron, pieces of bone and no wine. The creaming it with butter and a typical Lodi 24 months. Then, as you wallow in the emotion there, go to chop Milanese, all'ossobuco, the tartare of Fasson adored by Carlin Petrini. It will dissolve completely.
Bonus meat, good, comes from the butcher Sergio Motta, of Inzago
Malus The cutlet Milanese, excellent, cost 30 €.
Votes
Kitchen: 8
Service:
6.5 Environment: 7.5
ROME OPEN
Lab 3
Way Pietralata 180, Rome. tel. 06-4501288
If a cold December evening your radio singing "the inns outside the city of Guccini you tear the steering wheel from my hands and take control of the car, well then you would not escape and you'd end up dangerously parked in turn, via Pietralata, in the Workshop 3, the pizzeria most of Pasolini's Rome. The regulars - namely the military barracks in the face - call it "ar thousand pounds." But the highlight of the house is not the price but the kitchen: the pizza Roman low-low (the one with the best nduja), the toast diet "sausage and mascarpone, and especially the kebabs. Extraordinary. Perfect. More Abruzzi Ivan Graziani.
Bonus The romantic garden with pergola attached. The kebabs, which produce addiction: some have exceeded 60.
Malus The red house wine. So cold and evil as to be undrinkable: the ideal per affrontare etilometri ed ematologi.
I voti
Cucina 7
Servizio 6
Ambiente 7
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